Titoni

Titoni is a family firm from Grenchen, still independent, and like West End it built its business almost entirely outside Europe — in its case China and South East Asia, where the Titoni rose on the case back is far better known than the name is in Switzerland.

This one is the dress format: slim case, faceted bezel, flat white dial, applied batons, date at three — and automatic, which is the part that matters. Getting a rotor and a date into a case this thin is the whole trick of the genre. It is a style that ran for years and was made well by a dozen firms, and the reason to keep one is not rarity. It is that the proportions are right and it slides under a cuff without arguing.